It’s funny how a moment of curiosity can turn into one of the most memorable adventures of your life. Growing up in the east of India, I’ve always had a thing for the North East. The vibes, the people, the untouched beauty – it’s a whole different world. Every time I had a chance to head that way, I couldn’t resist. Whether it was the stunning hills of Meghalaya, the serene beauty of Arunachal Pradesh, or the lively tea estates of Assam, I knew I had to explore it all. But the one place that stood out on my bucket list was Nagaland, especially for its Hornbill Festival. Trust me, it was worth the wait.
So, come along with me as I walk you through my journey to the Hornbill Festival and beyond!
Day 1: The Beginning of the Adventure
I arrived in Dimapur, the gateway to Nagaland, feeling like a kid on Christmas morning. After a quick 2-hour drive from the airport to Kohima, I checked into a little guesthouse run by a friendly local family. They greeted me with the warmest smiles and a cup of Zutho, the local rice beer. The place had a charming, rustic vibe, with bamboo walls and wooden floors. It wasn’t luxurious, but it was perfect—cozy and full of character.
That evening, I met Mimi, a young local woman who worked at the guesthouse. She was quick to become my guide for the week, even though she had a million things to do. Mimi explained the rich culture of Nagaland and told me that the Hornbill Festival was the highlight of the year. I could tell she was proud of her roots, and her excitement was contagious.
Day 2: Kisama Heritage Village and The First Taste of Culture
The next morning, we made our way to Kisama Heritage Village, the venue of the Hornbill Festival, just 12 km away from Kohima. It was early in the day, but the festival grounds were already buzzing with energy. I could hear the rhythmic beats of drums and the high-pitched war cries of the Naga warriors as I walked through the entrance. I was about to witness history in the making!
The first thing that struck me was the beautiful display of traditional huts from each Naga tribe. There were over 16 tribes participating in the festival, each one showcasing its unique culture. I wandered around, soaking in the vibe, trying to figure out where to start. Mimi, who was always a step ahead, introduced me to some of the stall owners.
One of them was Talu, a tall man from the Konyak tribe. His stall was filled with hand-carved wooden masks and jewellery. Talu told me about the traditions of his people, including their famous tattooing and headhunting practices. “You’ll see some of the Konyak elders with their faces covered in tattoos,” he explained. “They’re the ones with the stories to tell.”
After chatting with Talu, I found myself drifting toward the Traditional Naga Dance performances. A crowd had gathered around a group of dancers, dressed in elaborate feathered headgear and colourful loincloths, performing with such energy that you could almost feel the earth shake beneath their feet. I joined in the applause, my heart racing with the rhythm of the drums.
Day 3: The Music and Madness of the Hornbill Festival
The next day, I had the chance to catch the Hornbill Rock Contest, a music event that had young local bands rocking out to loud cheers. As someone who has always loved music, I found myself totally immersed in the performance. The local talent on display was mind-blowing—these bands were giving global acts a run for their money!
After the contest, Mimi and I grabbed some local food from one of the food stalls. We had Naga Pork with Bamboo Shoot (spicy but oh-so-delicious) and Momos (who can resist those?). As we ate, we talked about Nagaland’s evolution. Mimi explained how the state had become more open to tourism in recent years, thanks to festivals like Hornbill, which showcased the rich culture of the Naga tribes.
In the evening, the festival grounds came alive with more performances. I joined a crowd gathered near a stage for a traditional war dance by the Ao tribe. As I watched them stomp and chant, I couldn’t help but feel moved. There was so much passion in their movements, as though they were telling the story of their ancestors through their bodies.
Day 4: Exploring Dzükou Valley
Now, you can’t visit Nagaland without seeing its natural beauty, and luckily for me, Mimi arranged for a little trek to Dzükou Valley. Known for its stunning flower fields and pristine beauty, Dzükou is a trekker’s paradise. We spent the morning hiking through the mist-covered hills, passing through meadows with tiny wildflowers. The cool breeze and the views made it all worth it.
When we reached the top, I was completely breathless—not just from the hike but from the beauty of the valley. It was as if I had stepped into a postcard, surrounded by rolling hills and clear skies. “This is the real Nagaland,” Mimi said, smiling at me as we sat down to rest.
Day 5: The Final Day and Souvenir Shopping
On my final day in Kohima, I took some time to visit the Nagaland State Museum, where I learned more about the history of the Naga tribes. There, I saw displays of traditional weapons, jewellery, and clothes, which gave me even more insight into the incredible cultural diversity of the region.
Of course, before leaving, I had to get some souvenirs. Mimi took me to a local market where I picked up some handwoven textiles and beautiful Naga jewellery. I also bought a few wooden carvings from Talu, who had promised to save me a special piece—an intricately carved mask from his tribe. It was a memento I would cherish forever. If you’re pressed for time or can’t track down exactly what you’re after, these wooden souvenirs are also available on Amazon.
Reflecting on the Journey
As I sat on the flight back home, I couldn’t stop smiling. The Hornbill Festival had given me so much more than I had expected. It wasn’t just about the dances, music, or food—it was the warmth of the people, the pride in their culture, and the deep connection they had to their traditions. Nagaland had truly opened my eyes to the beauty of India’s tribal cultures.
If you ever find yourself thinking about visiting the Hornbill Festival, do it. I promise you, it’s an experience like no other. You’ll come away with memories, stories, and maybe even a few dance moves that you’ll never forget.
Tips for Your Hornbill Festival Trip:
- Best Time to Visit: The festival happens in the first week of December. Book your tickets well in advance.
- Getting There: Fly into Dimapur, and then take a 2-3 hour drive to Kohima. Buses and taxis are available.
- What to Wear: Comfortable clothing and shoes, especially if you plan to trek to Dzükou Valley.
- Must-See: Traditional dances, the Hornbill Rock Contest, and the local handicrafts.
- Don’t Miss: Naga food—try the Pork with Bamboo Shoots and Momos.